I have checked the vero against the schematic from Pedal PCB several times, but I am yet to build this one - I would recommend you check it yourself before building it, or use a verified layout from Dirtbox layouts. I recently reworked an old layout from 2020, as it was a bit chaotic, and there was an error spotted (see comments below).
FAIRFIELD CIRCUITRY UNPLEASANT SURPRISE - VERO LAYOUT
cool one!! i might give it a go..... just wondering if you can guide me on how to wire a potentiometer instead of the Treble switch and which value/taper should it be? thanks in advance
ReplyDeleteHi Uzume,
DeleteI'll test some options on LTspice when I get a chance (which might be a while) - something like the tone control on the Rift would probably work.
Use an A100k pot instead of the switch. The 33n cap might need to change as well, depending on what you like the sound of.
Blue "T" on switch to pin 2 on 100k pot, Grey "T" on switch to pin 1 on the pot.
https://vero-p2p.blogspot.com/2022/10/rift-amplification-el34-vero-layout.html
Would you suggest trimmers rather than the resistors for the bias? To experiment?
ReplyDeleteHello. Trimmers would certainly help with these JFETs - I never got around to making this one. There’s a verified layout over on dirtbox layouts that would be a safer option.
ReplyDeleteThanks Andrew
DeleteI certainly prefer your Vero to try and fit in a similar style enclosure to the original
DeleteFair enough. Let me know how you go. Good luck!
DeleteSorry Andrew - last question i hope! In regards to the caps - are the yellow 100pf and 100nf ceramic? 220uf is polarised and the 2.2, 47nf and 1 uf filmbox?
ReplyDeleteHello. Yep, you’re correct. The yellow caps are ceramic. 220uf is polarised electrolytic and the rest are regular MKT box caps.
DeleteThank you for that! ive had a look at your big cheese build too! both are on the lonnng list! realised you are a fellow Queenslander - GC here. Great site.
DeleteHope you're staying dry down there - this weather is a bit mental.
DeleteThanks Andrew, down in Melb visiting family so hopefully return to a dry house! ive tried to work through this schematic, its not my strength and my brain has exploded. The one question i have is the 1k (R22) on the board it looks like its connected to 9v? however on the schematic it is not? Excuse me if i am completely wrong - i just dont see any other resistors within the signal chain connected to ground or + anywhere else.
ReplyDeleteGood spotting - update layout added. I had the 1k resistor coming off the collector instead of the emitter of the last transistor in the circuit.
DeleteThis is a slightly brain bending layout with all the switches etc.
do you know how proud i am of spotting that haha! all good, i have a headache trying to double check it..... i did the start and end.... but got very lost in the middle!
DeleteI know the feeling & thank you for helping out
DeleteI will try build this and get it verified for you (I just have a few builds on the go so wont be for a while)
DeleteNo problem. If you haven’t made anything with J201 JFETs before, watch out for fakes. Basically anything out of China or are just too cheap. Buying from reputable pedal parts suppliers should be fine.
ReplyDeleteFakes still work to some extent, but sound weak and nasty by comparison.
I always get as much as possible from paul at diyguitarpedals. He is amazing so try and support his business but also have a voucher for amplified parts which is exciting!
DeleteSorry man, another one - the cut at column 4, row 1 - that has one end of the 16k resistor . is that correct?
DeleteHello. That shouldn’t be there. I moved the polarity protection diode from the top row and the cut.
Delete