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Sunday, November 8, 2026

PHILIPS: Model EV4435A PA Amplifier

New to the bench, although I have worked on one of its larger siblings before.  This one has been sitting in a corner of The Guitar Repairers for a while, and hopefully will be back there soon, in working order.

These Philips amps are quite industrial-looking and built like tanks.  This one is missing the top cover and base plate.  It has had some modifications done on the inputs.  

The amp is rated at 30w, powered by a pair of 6CM5 valves (normally used in TVs for non-audio purposes).  These seem to be more of an Australian thing; I haven't really seen them pop up elsewhere.

The service manual can be found here, schematic below.

PHILIPS MODEL EV4435A PA AMPLIFIER

PHILIPS MODEL EV4435A PA AMPLIFIER

PHILIPS MODEL EV4435A PA AMPLIFIER

PHILIPS MODEL EV4435A PA AMPLIFIER

PHILIPS MODEL EV4435A PA AMPLIFIER

PHILIPS MODEL EV4435A PA AMPLIFIER

PHILIPS MODEL EV4435A PA AMPLIFIER

PHILIPS MODEL EV4435A PA AMPLIFIER

MIC TRANSFORMER - EV4428

20:1 ratio & very interesting construction...  basically it's a transformer wrapped in foam and stuffed in a can.



OT MEASUREMENTS

The service manual specifies three output impedances: 330 Ω, 160 Ω and 80 Ω.  These correspond to the nominal 100 V, 70 V and 50 V line outputs.

Primary DCR 150Ω 

Transformer presents approximately 2.4–2.5 kΩ plate-to-plate

Secondary measurements 
1 - 2.    9.47:1
1 - 3.    5.5:1
1 - 4.    2.75:1
2 - 3.    13.13:1    2.76k with 16 ohm speaker, but it's questionable whether it could handle 30w

5 - 6.    27.67:1.   (NFB winding)

2V monitor speaker winding: 127:1 

POWER SUPPLY

One unusual feature of the Philips EV4435A is how it obtains the lower screen-grid voltage required by the 6CM5 output valves.

The high-voltage secondary of the power transformer (L3) has a centre tap, while the two ends of the winding feed a full-wave bridge rectifier (W2–W5).

Rather than grounding the centre tap, Philips uses it to provide the screen-grid supply.

Because the negative output of the bridge rectifier is grounded, the centre tap develops a positive, full-wave rectified voltage relative to chassis. This is then filtered to provide approximately half the main HT voltage.

According to the original service manual, the expected voltages are:

6CM5 plates: 310–330V DC
6CM5 screens: 155–165V DC

It's a clever way to obtain two different HT voltages from a single transformer winding without requiring a substantial voltage-dropping resistor or a separate screen-supply winding.

SCHEMATIC

I think the 4435A is basically the 4435, with an input transformer for a low-impedance microphone.

PHILIPS MODEL EV4435A PA AMPLIFIER SCHEMATIC


PHILIPS MODEL EV4435 PA AMPLIFIER SCHEMATIC


Tuesday, October 13, 2026

MOODY: G.A.40 Guitar Amplifier

This one was sold as needing a replacement power transformer, which was perhaps a bit of an understatement, although I suspect the seller had no idea.  After a bit of work, it's up and running again.


If you have a spare 'M' knob, please let me know...    I'm missing one on the front panel.  I can live without one on the reverb knob on the rear, but it would be nice to have both.

Moody GA40 guitar amp front panel

MOODY G.A.40 GUITAR AMPLIFIER - CIRCA 1965

The Moody GA40 is a mid-1960s Australian-made guitar amplifier from Sydney, from a time when local manufacturers were producing some interesting alternatives to the now better-known American and British amps, which were often prohibitively expensive in Australia.

The GA40 runs a pair of cathode-biased EL34 output valves and has two channels - Normal and Vibrato.  The valve complement also includes three 12AX7s, a 6BL8 pentode/triode for the phase inverter, and a 6DX8 pentode/triode for reverb.  

Moody GA40 guitar amp speaker cab

The matching 2 × 12 cabinet is loaded with Australian-made Rola 12PEG Alnico speakers - it's a very well-made plywood cab.  It's roughly the same size as a Fender 2 x 12 sealed-back enclosure, just a little smaller.

Moody GA40 guitar amp gut shot

How many things are wrong in this photo?  Clear to see that one of the filter caps is in a bad way - and if you look to the top right, you can see the bypass cap for the EL34s has been placed hard up against the bias resistor next to the EL34 - it had been thoroughly cooked by heat.  The mustard cap bottom centre fell apart when I unsoldered it - mustard caps are great, unless they have cracks.     

Normal Channel 

The Normal channel is fairly conventional, with volume, bass and treble controls. The tone stack is very similar to that of a Fender 6G7 Bandmaster. 

Both channel inputs are identical, with no high and low-sensitivity options, and neither is grounded when a plug is removed.  Not necessarily the quietest arrangement, but apparently that's how Moody designed it, so I'll leave it that way.

Vibrato Channel

The Vibrato/Reverb channel follows much the same arrangement in terms of the first gain stage and tone controls, although the second gain stage has an unusual cathode-bias arrangement to accommodate the tremolo.   It sounds different to the normal channel as a result of this - lower volume and a bit dirty. 

There's also some additional filtering after the volume control, apparently intended to remove any unwanted low-frequency signal from the tremolo oscillator.

Vibrato 

The tremolo is interesting - it uses a 12AX7 oscillator to modulate the cathode of a preamp stage.  The way that it's set-up, has quite an effect on the stage's biasing, giving the channel a somewhat gritty character, which I actually quite like.

Reverb

The reverb circuit is also a little different compared with more common guitar amps.  Apart from being capacitor-coupled rather than transformer-driven, the reverb send is taken directly after the first gain stage, ahead of the tone and volume controls.  

Moody put the reverb knob on the back of the amp, which I can only assume means they were using an existing amp head chassis, and decided to drill a hole in the back, rather than having a new one made with space for a reverb knob on the front.

The return feeds directly into the phase inverter, bypassing the channel's volume control entirely.   This means the reverb level is independent of the dry signal - turn the channel volume right down, and the reverb is still there.  Due to the weird set-up, channel jumpering adds reverb to the normal channel, which is a nice bonus.



It uses a Type 4 Hammond / Gibbs tank model 1122, date code: 6429.  DCR 170Ω on both the input and output.  The reverb on/off switch doesn't ground the circuit as most do - it breaks the signal chain.





Phase Inverter

The phase inverter is a fairly conventional cathodyne design, but rather than using a 12AX7 or similar, Moody chose a 6BL8 pentode/triode combination.  The pentode provides gain, while the triode handles the phase inversion.  An interesting choice, and not one you see particularly often in guitar amps.

Output Transformer – Ferguson OP452

The output transformer is marked OP452, made by Ferguson with a date code of 6/65 (June 1965). It's designed for the pair of EL34 output valves, with a primary impedance of approximately 3.4 kΩ plate-to-plate.  These appear to be a special order, and do not appear in the Ferguson catalogue (at least from what I could find).

I measured the DC resistance of the primary at 154.5 Ω end-to-end, with 81.9 Ω and 72.8 Ω from the centre tap to each plate connection. The slight difference between the two halves is normal, due to differences in winding length.

To determine the impedance ratios, I applied 9.70 VAC across the full primary winding and measured the voltage on each secondary tap.

MeasurementOrange (Speaker)Green (Extension)
Secondary voltage0.458 VAC0.666 VAC
Turns ratio21.18:114.56:1
Nominal speaker impedance8 Ω16 Ω
Reflected primary impedance3.59 kΩ3.39 kΩ

Both taps reflect close enough to 3.4 kΩ plate-to-plate when connected to their intended speaker loads.

The matching cabinet contains two Rola 12PEG Alnico speakers, each nominally 15 Ω and wired in parallel, giving a combined load of approximately 7.5 Ω. Connected to the orange speaker output, this reflects around 3.36 kΩ plate-to-plate - a pretty good match for the original EL34 output stage.

Output transformer winding

Winding info poached from AGGH - hopefully I'll never need it.






EL34's

The EL34's are running close to the datasheet specs, running at almost 100%.

note:  currently running amp on 250v tap

P    355V
S    357V
K    22.1V
Rk  130

Power Supply

The GA40 power supply uses a Ferguson PF1866 transformer:  170 VAC transformer secondary feeding a two-diode voltage doubler.  The doubler uses two 100u / 350 V electrolytic capacitors, followed by a smoothing choke and additional filtering.  Voltage doublers seem common on Australian amps for some reason.

There's a power selector for the primary -  there are only three taps on the primary, but there are four voltages to choose from.  From what I can tell, 220v & 230v are both the same tap.


Primary windings
Orange 250v
Red 240v
Brown is wired to both 220v and 230v
Black

Secondary windings
White     170V HT
Yellow    Preamp heater voltage (with grounded blue centre tap)
Brown    EL34 heaters, no centre tap

Rewound PT - old one was pulled apart, measured and rebuilt.  

HT1           360
HT2           239
HT3           123
 


The original choke, marked FL225 on the schematic, measures approximately 1.08 H with a DC resistance of 47 Ω.  After the choke, the HT supply is progressively reduced through a 4.7 kΩ / 5 W resistor and an 82 kΩ / 1 W resistor, with 20u / 450 V filter capacitors at each of the three HT supply nodes.

The 5W 4.7 kΩ is not technically beefy enough for the voltage drop that it's providing, and I can see where it has started to melt the insulator on a nearby wire.  With a 160v drop, it was dissipating just over 5.4W - not ideal, but it has survived all these years.   

The power transformer also has separate 6.3 VAC heater windings for the EL34 output valves and the smaller valves.  Unfortunately, the HT taps turned into a burnt mess, and the transformer is away for rewinding - and as you can see, the filter caps are not in a good way, along with the rest of the power supply.  After replacing all the caps, I've been using a substitute transformer for testing purposes.  


Grounding System

What grounding system?  There is not a single ground bus/wire; everything is soldered directly to the chassis, wherever that part may be.  And of course, despite this being the "wrong" way to do it, it does not have a problem with hum...     


Moody GA40 Schematic

There are some slight variations to those already published, but nothing major. 

Moody GA40 Schematic


Fender Bandmaster 6G7 vs Moody tone controls

As mentioned above - the tone controls are pretty similar to a 6G7 Bandmaster from the blonde era (along with the Pro 6G5 and Super 6G4).  

Compared to 6G7, the Moody has an extra 8k2 resistor on the tail of the stack, which reduces the mid-scoop.  I tested this on the bench with a jumper lead, both sounded good; in some cases I preferred one over the other, but it was very pickup-dependent.  I'm leaving it as stock, cause what's the point in trying to turn everything into a Fender.  

Moody GA40

Fender Bandmaster 6G7

Repairs

  • The power supply was cooked - all of it.  Power transformer rewound; diodes and filter caps replaced - only the dropper resistors survived.  Quite often, Ducon filter caps from this era are still in great shape.
  • A few mustard caps had dried out to the point that they were cracked and falling apart.  Replaced all of the electrolytic bypass caps, as a few looked awful and didn't measure well at all.  
  • Usual maintenance work - valve sockets and pots needed a good clean. 
  • Added some insulation in parts, as the spaghetti tubing had disintegrated. 
  • Not a repair as such, but I replaced the 5W 4k7 resistor with 2 x 5W 2k2 resistors to keep them comfortably below their rating.  Only changed HT2 voltage by 10V 

  • 10amp fuse replaced with a 3amp fuse.
  • Footswitch mod: I removed the separate reverb and trem footswitches and their messy wiring. Using a spare hole in the chassis, I installed a stereo jack so a standard two-button footswitch can now be used.    I also changed the reverb switching to ground the recovery stage grid, rather than running the audio signal out through an unshielded cable and back. The tremolo switching was already conventional, so I left it unchanged.   It's all reversible, and I kept the original switches with their dodgy cable.  

Power transformer rewind

After disassembly, ready for a rewind.  Can I just say - getting the first couple of laminations out was a nightmare.  At one stage I was going to attempt this myself, with help from a very knowledgeable older chap with a winding machine.  I decided to go the safer route, and it's now in some very capable hands elsewhere.   


Here's some action shots from the transformer rewind.  The guy doing the rewind said that the transformer seems to be running very much at the edge of capacity - I don't know the dark arts of transformer winding, but here's what he had to say "the core Bmax is being run at around 1.2 Tesla this is considered close to the max that power transformer iron should be run". 


The image below is from the unwinding stage - fresh wind being applied above.  





    Sunday, October 4, 2026

    VALCO: Oahu Lap Steel 345-K

    This is a fine-looking little amp from the early forties - the field-coil speaker is dated March 1941, making it pre-war from an American's perspective.

    No volume or tone controls, as it is a very small amp, and these controls were of course mounted on its matching lap steel guitar.  

    The brief on this one is to get it working, so it can once again be paired with the lap steel.  

    Starting positive:  transformers, field-coil and valves all working.   Valves tested very well.   The not so fun: pretty sure that no original components were left, and someone had modified the circuit to the point that it did not resemble a working amplifier. 

    Anyways - it’s back up and running now, after essentially a complete rebuild.  

    OAHU 345-K LAP STEEL AMPLIFIER

    OAHU 345-K LAP STEEL AMPLIFIER

    OAHU 345-K LAP STEEL AMPLIFIER


    VALVES

    It's a very simple single-ended amp, so it only needs three valves:  5Y3 rectifier, 6F6 for power, and 6SF5 for the preamp.

    I'd never heard of a 6SF5 before.  It turns out to be a single high-gain triode with specs very close to one half of a 12AX7 - both have an amplification factor of about 100 and very similar transconductance and plate resistance.

    The 6F6 is an earlier relative of the 6V6.  It's a slightly different design with different bias and output-transformer load requirements, and has lower output.

    OAHU 345-K LAP STEEL AMPLIFIER

    OAHU 345-K LAP STEEL AMPLIFIER

    OAHU 345-K LAP STEEL AMPLIFIER

    OAHU 345-K LAP STEEL AMPLIFIER

    OAHU 345-K LAP STEEL AMPLIFIER


    OAHU LAP STEEL 345-K SCHEMATIC

    It's a pretty minimal single-ended amp, running at about 3 watts.   The design is simple, and it gets the job done. 

    OAHU 345-K LAP STEEL AMPLIFIER SCHEMATIC

    REPAIRS

    Initially, I wasn’t sure whether I wanted to do any repairs at all. Given the age of the amp, there was a part of me that thought it might be better left alone - not working, but at least still in its original state.

    That opinion changed pretty quickly once I opened it up.  It was obvious that someone had already carried out a fair amount of work over the years, so there wasn’t really an untouched original circuit left to preserve.

    The large orange Sprague filter capacitors were probably the biggest giveaway.  They’re rated at 600 V in an amp with a B+ of only about 280 V before the choke / speaker field coil drops it to around 220 V.  Subtle they are not.


    Before I found a schematic online, I started tracing the circuit myself, but it didn’t take long to realise that was probably a waste of time. I doubt the amp would have worked in the state I found it.

    The preamp had a 100 Ω resistor between the input jack and the grid, while the cathode was connected straight to ground. The 100 kΩ plate resistor at least made sense, but the coupling capacitor was an Orange Drop rated at just 100 V, far below the required rating.

    Things weren’t much better around the 6F6. Its 150 kΩ grid leak had been made up from two resistors in series, both of which had drifted well out of spec. The cathode resistor measured about 310 Ω.


    I rebuilt the circuit to the original design, and it’s now working as it should. It isn’t an entirely period-correct restoration - I haven’t gone as far as sourcing dog-bone resistors etc, but I have tried to keep the rebuild visually sympathetic to the age and character of the amp.






    Friday, October 2, 2026

    GOLDENTONE: Model 1958 Reverbmaster

    Nice little Goldentone, Model 1958 Reverbmaster from around 1968 - it's a great little amp, 12w with a single 12" speaker, reverb and trem.   It's very a clean sounding amp, as it's missing a gain stage that is normally part of the phase inverter - not much overdrive when cranked.

    GOLDENTONE, MODEL 1958 REVERBMASTER

    Goldentone, model 1958 Reverbmaster guitar amp

    As you can see by the size comparison to my cat - it's quite a compact amp.



    Goldentone, model 1958 Reverbmaster guitar amp - rear panel



    Goldentone used their unusual valve-socket construction technique: they connected another socket to the base, creating little trees to suspend components from.  It's compact, but not always easy to work on.


    Goldentone, model 1958 Reverbmaster guitar amp - chassis

    A&R reverb transformer, with 6GW8 driver.

    Goldentone, model 1958 Reverbmaster guitar amp - chassis

    Rola output transformer, dated 26 August 1968.

    Goldentone, model 1958 Reverbmaster guitar amp - output transformer

    Reverb

    The reverb is valve-driven using a 6GW8 & a transformer.  It's a very small, low-impedance tank mounted on the side of the combo.  The reverb send and return bypass the amp's volume control, meaning that it is completely independent of it.

    Goldentone, model 1958 Reverbmaster guitar amp - reverb tank

    Goldentone, model 1958 Reverbmaster guitar amp - rectifier

    Speaker - MSP Hi-Flux

    Single 12" speaker, 15 ohms. Not much of a magnet (assuming ceramic), so low wattage.  It's pretty decent sounding.  


    Goldentone Catalogue from 1968


    Goldentone Model 1958 Schematic

    Goldentone model 1958 reverbmaster schematic


    Valves

    3 x 6GW8 (ECL86 combinded pentode / triode), 1 x 12AX7

    Inputs

    2 x inputs, both identical. 

    47k  grid stoppers, 470k grid leak (shared)

    Preamp / tone controls

    Input  >  triode  >  bass, treble, volume  > triode > phase inverter

    A 12AX7 is doing the work - nothing out of the ordinary.

    First gain stage:  Ra: 100k,   Rk: 1k8 / 22u bypass

    Second gain stage: Ra: 100k,  Rk:  2k2 / 100n bypass

    Coupling cap:  22n.  Volume pot:  1meg 

    Not unlike the classic Fender bass treble set-up.  250k pots

    Tremolo

    The tremolo uses one of the triodes from a 6GW8 - it's a very standard oscillator, feeding the bias of the output pentodes.  The speed control is also the power on / off switch for the amp.

    Phase inverter

    Cathodyne phase inverter using one of the triodes from the 6GW8 valves in the power section.  It does not have a gain stage, just the inverter.  

    Ra 47k, 1m on grid, Rk 1k8 / 47k.  10n coupling caps. 

    Power amp

    Push-pull, fixed bias.  

    Power

    Power transformer, silicon bridge rectifier / 50uf   >  1k dropper / 50uf  > 10k / 8uf 

    B+ ~240v

    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

    Repairs & Maintenance

    The previous owner thought it just needed new input jacks - not quite.   

    • 100k plate resistor in the preamp had split in two.
    • Resistor on the tail of the tone stack had a broken connection.
    • Caps in the trem oscillator needed replacing, as it was not oscillating.   

    • Coupling caps from the phase inverter were replaced - a bit leaky.    

    • 8uf cap in the power supply, as it had a decent-sized protrusion on one end. 
    • Very large dead huntsman spider removed from speaker frame - big enough to cause problems.
    • Valve sockets all cleaned.
    • Corrected a factory error - a coupling cap was soldered directly to a grid, instead of the grid stopper resistor on one of the output pentodes.